In a city famed for the style, Früh are considered one of the key players, and their brewer-run bars are some of the most atmospheric places to soak up the region’s drinking culture.

Waiters weave their way through packed benches, carrying trays of beers with which they replace any empty glass they see, unprompted. A beermat on top of the glass is the sign of surrender that stops the flow. Even the glassware is unique. Referred to as a ‘Stange’, elegant, straight-sided vessel which holds an unusual 200ml measure.

As for the beer itself? Kölsch has more subtlety and complexity than a pilsner, without some of the bitter notes and a softer carbonation, which makes for a refreshing, light golden ale.

Keep those beer mats firmly on the table, and keep the Früh Kölsch coming.